Getting To Know Tibetan Cuisine

Tibet lies to the north of India.Its inhabitants have traversed far and wide in India,spreading their culture and cuisine,particularly in Dharamsala,McCleodgunj,(Majnu Ka Tila)Delhi,Kolkata and Bylakuppe (Karnataka).Momos are popular all over the country with even food chains being launched that serve mainly momos.There is ofcourse more to Tibetan cuisine as we learnt on a Sunday afternoon at the Foodhall Cookery Studio at the Tibetan Community Cooking Class organised by Authenticook (a venture that  brings home chefs to the forefront)

Our teacher that day was Esha Sahoy Lepcha whose grandparents came from Tibet.She taught us dishes that are a part of Tibetan homes.....Suja/Butter Tea,Momos,Thenthuk and Ema Dashi (Bhutanese but enjoyed by Tibetans as well)

The class had eight students, some of whom had eaten Tibetan food before.I have tried some dishes at Sernnya at Andheri and got to know that the owner is Esha's uncle! Our cooking class started with Butter Tea,a savoury tea which was more like a soup that helps Tibetans combat the cold weather..In Tibet,bricks of tea are available which are broken off and added to water to make a brown liquid that is stored to make black  tea.To this is added Dri Butter.Dri is the female version of Yak (Yaks do not produce milk).In the English language however Yak refers to both male and female. The whole misxture is churned in a Chandong.At the studio we used locally available butter,added Darjeeling black tea and blended it with a hand blender.The result was delicious.Tibetan Yoghurt too is very popular and made from yak milk

Barley is an ancient grain and grows well at high altitudes.Tibet is the highest region in the world.The barley here is high in beta glucans which has a beneficial role in Diabetes and its complications.Barley is roasted and its flour used to make balls called Tsampa.These are delicious and eaten with Butter Tea,either as an accompaniment or added to the tea itself.Barley flour is available in Mumbai and I plan to make this soon.

Next we learnt how to make Ema Datshi.This is the national dish of Bhutan and is a Chilli Cheese Stew.Chillies are considered as vegetables and yak cheese, onions,tomatoes and greens transform this into a heartening yet simple dish.Churpi is a hard cheese used in this dish.We used a mix of Cheddar and Blue Cheese.Chillies are valued in Himalayan cuisine and used as gifts as well.

Then we learnt the  winter soup Thenthuk.Everyone is familiar with Thukpa.That has ramen noodles.Thentuk has hand pulled noodles in the broth.Funny how each community has its own version.Take for instance,Dal Dhokli of Gujaratis.There too whole wheat dough cut in pieces is added to a broth.Maharashtrians have a version called Dubuk Vade.Thenthuk has a meat broth (originally yak meat) to which greens and other vegetables are coarsely chopped and added.At the end,handpulled whole wheat noodles are added and they rise to the surface when cooked.Subtly spiced, this is served with a sauce which enhances its taste.Tibetans use a minimalistic mix of spices and herbs like wild garlic, ginger,sichuan pepper, chilli pepper, cloves,star anise, bayleaf,celery and spring onions in their cuisine.Nowadays Indian spices like turmeric, cumin powder are also added.

In a Tibetan home,Esha pointed out that a lot happens around the kitchen.Every family believes in eating and living together.Children start helping their mothers in the kitchen at any early age.Hospitality is a part of Tibetan tradition, not only to a known guest but also to an unknown traveller.Cultural exchange has changed ways Tibetans cook nowadays.They has incorporated new spices and methods of cooking.Earlier wooden cookware (pots, spoons,bowls,ladles) was used and Esha's mom even had brass and silver pots.Now woks, pots and pans available in the market are used.

Momos are dumplings with stuffing.Usually steamed, they have an Indian flavour.We learnt how to make vegetarian ones as monks are vegetarian mostly.Ours were made with minced soya, liberally spiced.Meat is eaten by Tibetans for survival.Fish is therefore not eaten as many fish would have to be killed to provide food for survival to people.

Dipping sauces are a part of the dish.

Varieties include pan-fried momos and open momos

It takes years to perfect the art of making momos. 

The surprise of the class was Tibetan Dessert-making.The first was Dresil wherein rice is cooked in butter and dry fruits are added.Milk is traditionally added to this and cooked overnight.This is a favourite at Dalai Lama's monastery.At the class, we used condensed milk as a shortcut.The other dessert was the sinful Tibetan Sweet Bread (Ngamo Palep) made of flour and egg.

     It was intriguing to learn about Tibetan cuisine.They have calorie rich food and yet are slim.Working hard physically and dealing with the cold weather could have something to do with it.
     As for Esha,she never planned to be a home chef.It just happened. She was always an excited child helping out in her mother's kitchen and now she is queen of her own! It gives her great joy to present the simple yet exotic Tibetan cuisine to others in the form of pop-ups and cooking classes.She is full of energy and patience and makes a great teacher.

     We ended with a feast.All the dishes we made and some more that Esha made....Chilly Chicken (Chicken Shapta),Tse Sesha (Foraged Mushrooms with vegetables) and Spicy Potatoes.
     The Take Home message for me that day was the valuable use of Barley in diet and the concept of Community Cooking. Barley is an ancient,nutritious and inexpensive ingredient that we can easily add to our diet.Community cooking involves the whole community cooking together, sharing stories and showing their gratitude to one another! Something we could surely add to our lives!!